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(GIST OF YOJANA) WEAVES OF WOVEN FABRICS

(MAY-2024)

Fabrics are manufactured in wide varieties and designs. The basic weaves are plain, twill, and satin. All the others are derivatives of these basic weaves or their combinations. Various weaving techniques like plain, twill, satin, honeycomb, huckaback, crepe, and others produce diverse fabrics including velvets, double cloth, and tubular constructions.

Plain is the simplest weave, in which warp and weft threads interlace in alternate manner as shown, giving maximum number of interlacements.
This maximum interlacement imparts firmness and stability to the structure. Atleast two ends and two picks are required to weave its basic unit. A minimum of two heald frames are required for this weave. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhoti, saree, shirting, suiting, etc.

Twill weave is another basic weave that is well known for its diagonal line formation in the fabric due to its interlacing pattern. This weave and its derivatives are used for ornamental purposes. Twill has a closer setting of yarns due to less interlacement, imparting greater weight and a better drape as compared to the plain weave. In simple twill, the outward and upward movement of the interlacing pattern is always one that imparts a diagonal line to this design.

Satin/sateen is a basic weave that does not have any regular pattern like twill. The surface of the fabric is either warp- or weft faced. Satin is warp-faced, which means that all the surface of the fabric will show the warp threads except for the one threaded interlacement with other series of yarn. If it is weft-faced, then it will be known as sateen, which means that the fabric surface will mostly show the weft threads. These weaves have the fewest interlacement points among the basic weaves. Due to this, it gives the surface of the fabric more lustre and smoothness. With this weave, it is possible to use a cotton warp and silk filling, having most of the silk appearance on the surface of the fabric. It is used in sarees, blouse materials, dress materials, bed spreads, furnishing fabrics, curtain fabrics, etc.

This name is given to this weave due to its honeybee web-like structure. It makes ridges and hollow structures, which finally give a cell-like appearance. In this weave, both warp and weft threads move freely on both sides, which is coupled with the rough structure. The fabric made by this weave has longer floats all over the fabric. Due to this reason, it is radially absorbent of moisture. This property made these weaves useful for towels, bed covers, and quilts. Most commonly, these weaves are constructed on repeats, which are multiples of four in ends and picks.

This weave is largely used for cotton towels and linen cloth. It has longer floats in two quadrants, which makes it more moisture-absorbent. This weave is a combination of longer floats of symmetric weaves in two quadrants and plain weaves in the remaining two quadrants. Plain weave gives firmness to the structure, while longer float weave increases the absorbency of fabric, making it suitable for the above-stated purpose.

Crepe weave refers to the weave that does not have any specific pattern. The weave may have a little bit of the appearance of twill, but it does not have the prominence. They make small patterns or minute spots with a seed-like appearance all over the fabric surface. The weave may be used separately or in combination with other weaves. Crepe weave is frequently employed in making the ground of the figured fabrics.

This is a special class of weave that forms longitudinal warp lines in fabric with fine sunken lines in between. This fabric is used in suits for ornamental purposes. The method of constructing this weave is simple. The repeat of the weave is calculated by multiplying the cord ends by two. The resultant value will be the total number of ends of the weave repeat. The pick repeat is four for this weave. The weave repeat (warp ends) is divided into two halves to construct it.

A pique weave consists of plain face fabric, which is composed of a series of warp and weft threads along with a series of stitching threads. This weave is unique due to the formation of horizontal lines (weft-wise). weft yarns. This makes for a more open weave that can be woven tightly for shirting or left completely loose to resemble netting or mesh.

The weave combines two or more different weaves, but the weave on one side is not visible on the other side. For example: sateen on the face side and twill on the back side are woven with appropriate stitches. Using this weave, two different types of yarn can be woven on the face and back sides of the fabric.

This weave is unique in nature because it produces loop piles on the fabrics. These weaves are used in toweling fabrics. More popularly, these towels are known as Turkey towels or terry towels. These towels are more popular for their water absorbency.

It is a double cloth woven without stitching points between the face and back fabrics. When we take out the fabric from the loom, it will be a tube made of fabric.